A day in Tobermory, Isle of Mull

Visit Duart Castle and learn about Lady’s Rock

After your bowl of porridge or smoked salmon and scrambled eggs, start the day off with a trip to a castle – how very Scottish.

Duart Castle, the seat of Clan Maclean, is an imposing sight overlooking where the Sound of Mull meets Loch Linnhe. You can look round the castle which is full of information about the Macleans and their role in Scottish history, the castle played an important role in the Jacobite Rising, and there are plenty of rooms set out in an Edwardian style for you to look round. You can even go up on to the battlements for a great view (on sunny days) of Ben Nevis.

You can also see and learn about Lady’s Rock out in the water (which you can see at low tide), where, in the 1520s Lachlan Cattanach of Duart chained and abandoned his wife, Lady Margaret Campbell, in the hope she would drown so he could re-marry and produce an heir. A passing fisherman rescued her and she returned to her Campbell family home. When Lachlan went to tell the Campbells of the death of Lady Margaret, she was there waiting for him. You can also find out what revenge the Campbells took for the attempted murder.  

At the castle, you can walk down to the water’s edge where you can learn about the Cromwellian warship that was shipwrecked. Look out for any heads bobbing up out of the water – seals and otters, not ghosts from the shipwreck.

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There is also a tearoom which does very good cake – the Duart Castle cake (orange and poppy seed) is especially nice, and they also serve lunches that are locally sourced or grown in the castle grounds.

Visit the shops and pubs on the harbour front

Tobermory is bright and colourful – full of character and lovely locals who want you to love their part of the world as much as they do.

It won’t take long to walk round but there are plenty of interesting shops to visit including a chocolate shop, a gin shop, a place selling locally made soaps and souvenirs, and ‘Tackle & Books’ which is a real treasure trove. There is also a museum of the Isle of Mull. One place I definitely recommend is the Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust Discovery Centre which is packed full of information about what you can see out in the water. The people who work here are incredibly knowledgeable and friendly and run tours and talks.

There are also tearooms and places to get a cups of tea if the weather isn’t too friendly.

Walk to the lighthouse

After the shops, walk out to the lighthouse. The walk there and back is around 5km through the woodland that runs alongside the edge of the cliff and will give you spectacular views. You can take the steps up to the top of the cliff and look out (the local homes are also very pretty with some lovingly looked after gardens). On the path there is also a viewpoint where you can sit and watch the ferries and yachts passing the lighthouse.

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Evening meal in Tobermory

There are a few places to eat in Tobermory but booking ahead is definitely recommended. Every place serves fresh, local seafood. There is the Tobermory Hotel which has a little outside area for drinks overlooking the harbour; Mishnish which is also the local pub; Café Fish very small and incredibly popular; and Macgochan’s for really good hearty dishes.

Or, if you don’t want to sit indoors, there is also a van on the pier which serves excellent fish and chips.

I loved visiting the Isle of Mull and Tobermory in particular. It is fun and friendly with some awesome things to see and lovely places to eat. Enjoy!